~Restringing Tutorial~ : BJDcollectasy.com

~Restringing Tutorial~ : BJDcollectasy.com:

 "Learn how to clean and re-string your doll.
This guide will show how easy it can be. 

Don’t be intimidated!

In the tutorial, she was disassembled, cleaned with a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, and re-assembled. 

The re-assembly of your doll can vary somewhat by company. 

 The general information in the video is true for most BJDs."

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~Eyelash Application~ : BJDcollectasy.com

~Eyelash Application~ : BJDcollectasy.com: "A short tutorial on how to add doll eyelashes to your doll. Don’t be intimidated! At the suggestion of face-up artist Michelle Hardy, the tool used to glue down the lashes was made of metal (a cuticle tool). A toothpick can also be used, but using a tool made of smooth metal made the lash less likely to stick to the tool. It’s easy to wipe clean too.

Additionally, if the adhesive on the edge of the lashes is a problem for you (all lashes have it. It sticks them to their container.) it can be removed by soaking the lashes first in Goo Gone, Acetone, or Windsor $ Newton’s Brush Cleaner. The residue can be scraped off with a toothpick or fingernail. I had no problem myself with leaving the adhesive on.

One additional note; the MSD-size doll used only one lash!"

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~Paperclay Doll Eyes~

~Paperclay Doll Eyes~ : BJDcollectasy.com: "Making Paperclay eyes for your doll is very simple. The eyes shown here were colored using pencils and acrylic paint, but feel free to explore other materials and use your imagination! The Paperclay used here was purchased at an A.C, Moore craft store, and it is easy to find at art and craft supply places. The Mr. Super Clear used to seal the eyes came from Junkyspot. The paints and pencils came from Dick Blick."

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 1. Roll some Paperclay into little beads.  

Since this takes very little time and uses very little clay,  make a bunch of paper beads.  

To gauge the size of the beads, compare them to a doll eye of the same size that you want to make. 

Then set all the beads aside to dry. 

Usually they dry in one day, but drying may take longer depending on bead size and atmospheric conditions.

2. Select two balls to use for the eyes.  You can test them in the doll first to see how they fit.

To work on them, you may find it helpful to stick the bead in a kneaded eraser which will hold it in place.

3. A screw or nail head can be used as a guide to trace an iris onto the bead.

Compare the screw or nail head size to the iris of a doll eye of similar size

to see whether it is the right size for your project.

4. Draw or paint your eye. Here is one in-progress. This one is being colored with pencils.

5. After you finish both eyes, spray them with Mr. Super Clear flat lacquer.

This protects the eyes.

The eyes could also be glossed.

Many art materials can be used in making your eyes,

and the looks you can achieve are limitless.

Have fun :0)

love, peace & light

Trace

oxo

How to Make Noah's Doll

How to Make Noah's Doll [English]: "How to Make Noah's Doll"

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Ever wanted to make a BJD ?

The link HERE will show you a making process of Noah's ball-jointed dolls step by step.

What is a ball-jointed doll?

It is a kind of a doll with ball-and-socket joints in its body, arms and legs. Limbs and head are joined together by loops of elastic.
There are many variations in the way to join each part of a doll.
Fig.01 shows the construction of Noah's doll.

Arms are attached by elastic running through the armholes and torso.
Each leg has its own piece of elastic, and in both legs loops of elastic run from the ankle up through the knee, the leg-hole and up to the head, both loops being hung on a hook inside the neck.
Other ends of the elastic band are attached to the small "S" shaped hook and hanged on the wire strung inside the wrists and ankles respectively.

No doll can stand up by itself when it hasn't been made well-balanced in its construction.


(1) Drawing up a plan

For a start, draw up a plan in same size, the front and the side, taking account of the balance of each part, and the size of joints. This doll will be 2 feet tall.

(2) Making the core

Here we don't use a mold. We introduce the way of using Styrofoam (foam polystyrene) for the core.
Cut the all parts from the lump of Styrofoam in a size 10mm smaller than finished size.

If you can find Styrofoam balls in adequate size on the market, you may use them for joints.

 (04) All the parts are arranged except hands and feet, which don't need the core.
The neck will be made after the shape of the head is settled and then attached to the head.

Put marks the position of features in the face, and the top and bottom, right and left in the limbs.

Continue the tutorial HERE

love, peace & light

Trace

oxo

Carnelia Antique Lilac

Carnelia - Gallery 2010 - Antique Lilac: "Carnelia"

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Costume design for art dolls'

By Martha Boers 

  The wings are sewn, painted, and wired fabric; their end wires insert into narrow pockets 

on the back of the bodice. The headband is braided leather.

 The rust brocade bodice is lined, has hand embroidered edging, and laces up the front. 

The 'sleeves'  slip on and have snaps from the elbow to the wrist 

- to fit over the hand and ensure a snug fit.

 All three skirts have frayed and stained hemlines. 

The long rust and short pink skirts have 'tears' which have been sewn up with silk ribbon.  

Shells and assorted ornaments dangle from the bottom of the shortest skirt. 

Beautifully inspiring work!

Love, peace & light

Trace

oxo

Make a set of wired wings for your favourite fairy.

Wired Wings

A more advanced version of 'Simple Wired Wings'by Antique lilac, and are sewn from semi-sheer fabric, with wires inserted which slip into pockets sewn onto the back of the costume bodice. 

The tutorial covers the steps involved in making the wings.

Please go HERE for full instructions. 

 Materials

  - sheer fabric (with some body - not too flimsy)

  - scissors

  - wire - thickness depends on size of wings being 

     made. For MSD size wings use an 18 gauge.

  - pliers

  - sewing machine & thread

  - Fray Check

  - iron

  - needle

  - hot glue gun

  - acrylic or Folk Art Paint in colours to match your      

     fairy outfit

  - Textile Medium

  - brushes

  - glitter paint

Print and cut out wing pattern. 

Pin pattern onto double layer sheer fabric. 

Trace upper edge of pattern onto fabric and cut with a 3/8" seam allowance along the top edge and leaving plenty of excess 

around the other outer edges of wing pattern.

Pin sewn wing onto pattern to keep it from moving, and trace vein lines

onto fabric with pencil. 

Remove pattern from back of wing and re-pin fabric. 

Press wing, then trace outer wing edge onto fabric. 

Cut outer wing edge being careful not 

to clip ends of sewn vein lines. 

Draw a line of Fray Check along outer wing edge. Let Dry.

Insert wires into fabric pockets. 

Thread needle with strong thread, knot end, and thread

 through one of the wing pockets. 

Pull fabric back along wires, apply a bit of hot glue to the

 two wire ends and pull fabric back over wires. 

Quickly stitch securely with needle and thread.

Wing Pattern

This tutorial includes the actual size wing patterns used for making the Fairy wings, 

as well as several other wing patterns you may want to try. 

To download the pattern pdf click on the Wings Pattern HERE

Have fun :0)

love,peace & light

Trace

oxo

~Fairy Skirt Project~ : BJDcollectasy.com

~Fairy Skirt Project~ : BJDcollectasy.com:

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Make a Fairy Skirt with a Tattered, Stained Hemline Embellished with Dangling Fairy Treasures

by Martha Boers of Antique Lilac

This tutorial reveals how I make my tattered fairy skirts. The instructions are for the tattering and staining of the skirt fabric, and do not include an actual skirt pattern.

Materials

- soft 100% cotton fabric in desired colour (I use cotton crinkle gauze)

- scissors

- acrylic folk art paint in a darker colour

- textile medium

- old brushes

- plastic tablecloth or placemat to work on

- iron

- silk ribbon in colours to match stained fabric. Must be silk ribbon (can substitute embroidery floss if silk ribbon is not available)

- assorted sized beads, shells, charms- matching thread

- sewing & beading needles

- thread

 Cut fabric for skirt, making the back an inch longer than the front. 

Cut a waistband to fit your doll, and gather skirt fabric onto waistband. 

Finish skirt waistband and sew up the back seam. 

Clip the bottom of the skirt as shown alternating short,

 medium and long clips into the fabric and rounding off the corners a little. 

To make a ‘hole’, clip a small triangle into the fabric as shown.

Unravel the clipped edge by hand.

  Optional – run the skirt with unraveled bottom through a wash 

and dry cycle with your laundry to soften the unraveled fibres.

Wet the bottom half of the skirt.

 Choose a darker colour paint, mix with an equal part textile medium, 

and thin with water.

 Work on a plastic tablecloth or place mat. 

With an old brush, work the diluted paint into all the wet ragged edges, 

and around any holes. 

Let air-dry completely – do not use forced heat as it will make the paint colour dry unevenly.

 Heat-set the paint with an iron.

 Wet the ironed hemline again to soften it and put he wrinkles back in. 

Let dry thoroughly.

 Gather matching-coloured silk ribbon and beads, shells, charms.

Thread silk ribbon through eye of a large needle and stitch through bottom of skirt edge. 

Then thread a needle, which will fit through the larger beads, with a double thread forming a loop.

Thread your desired beads onto the needle, and insert silk ribbon tails through loop in thread.

 Click HERE for further instruction - embellishment

A beautiful tutorial, and a talented artist.

Happy creating!!

Love, peace & light

Trace

oxo